Now Trousers by Ann Ringstrand

The Swedish fashion designer Ann Ringstrand recently released one of her best-selling designs as a free sewing pattern. I’m a sucker for a wrap trouser, and I’ve heard good things about the AR brand. However, as the saying goes, you get what you pay for, and this free pattern comes with some big caveats.

Design and Fit

The Now trousers are a unisex design that feature a wrap front closure and a subtle barrel shape thanks to darts at the knee and hem. The fit is described as loose, relaxed, and comfortable, suitable for “yoga or meditation practice”.

Perhaps because this pattern is unisex, it runs quite tall. I am 5’10” (178cm) and I found the rise height and leg length to be just right without adjustments. If you are shorter, you may need at take length out of the pattern in multiple spots.

I’ve made this pattern twice in an 8 oz light wash denim and a 10 oz herringbone denim. The fit is indeed relaxed and loose (but keep reading for a note about the sizing), and I didn’t need any fit adjustments to the pattern, which is a rare but welcome surprise.

I have a little bit of pocket gaping, but well within what I would call normal for this type of pocket design. I’d recommend using self fabric for the pocket lining, or at least for the side of the pocket bag that touches the body. I chose a contrast fabric on my darker pair (below), and you can see the print when the pocket opens up.

I was also a bit concerned about whether the wrap front closure would stay wrapped throughout the day, or whether these pants would need to be relegated to in-home use only. The front overlap is fairly generous, and so far I haven’t flashed my underwear in public yet. But I also haven’t been doing any warrior poses in the grocery store, so you’ve been warned.

Sizing: pay attention to finished garment measurements

The Now trouser size chart goes up to a 53 inch (134 cm) hip, however this number is a bit misleading. Each garment size accommodates a range of hip sizes, and looking at the finished garment measurements, if you are a size medium or above and you fall at the top end of the measurement range for your size, you will have zero or negative wearing ease.

For a non-stretch woven garment that is supposed to be “relaxed” and “loose”, negative wearing ease makes little sense to me. For the intended fit described for this pattern, I’d expect a minimum of 2 inches (5 cm) of ease at the hip, but ideally more than that. So bottom line: pay attention to the finished garment hip measurement and size up if you can or need to.

On top of the size charts running small, the instructions advise us to choose a size based on the waist measurement, which again makes no sense. Since this is a wrap design, the waist of the finished garment is highly customizable and forgiving, whereas this hip is not. So I would recommend choosing a size based on the hip measurement, not the waist.

I have a 42″ hip (107 cm), which according to the size charts is a size M, but gives me 1 cm of negative ease. I could not get the size M toile on my body let alone have it be relaxed and comfortable. I sized up to a size large to get 3 inches (7.6 cm) of ease at the hip, and I’m very happy with the fit.

Construction: your sewing intuition is required

Here’s where this pattern falls apart. The written instructions and illustrations are VERY vague and occasionally inaccurate. This pattern is not suitable for beginners and possibly not even intermediate sewists; I constructed these trousers largely using my intuition and a couple of blind leaps of faith where the instructions really got murky.

To be fair, it is a free pattern, so I am grateful that it came with any instructions at all. I think some of the issues stem from the fact that the English instructions were probably translated from Swedish, but this does not fully explain why the illustrations would be inaccurate.

I’ll publish my notes and photos from constructing these trousers in a separate blog post for anyone interested. If you are on the Backstitch app (which I highly recommend, it’s like Ravelry for the sewing world), I’ve also published my notes and review of this pattern there.

Final Thoughts

I debated whether to post this public review since the barriers to making this pattern are sky high. The sparse instructions and limited size range are likely to be dealbreakers for many sewists. Also, AR have not made this freebie widely available, it was only downloadable via a link in their May and July newsletters, so it’s unclear if future subscribers will be given access.

So if you happen to have this pattern in your library already, AND you fall within the size range, AND you are undeterred by a challenging project, then I guess this review is for you?

In the end, despite the big negatives, I do like the design. The wrap front closure is relatively unique, comfortable, and a great option for a long-lived garment that will accomodate a fluctuating waistline. It’s nice to have some alternatives to an elastic waist this summer, even if making them was an ordeal.

12 responses to “Now Trousers by Ann Ringstrand”

  1. Wow. Thanks for sharing. I downloaded the pattern but became discouraged after checking out the size charts and instructions. I love the slouchy and unique look, but will probably put this pattern on the back burner.

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    1. Agreed. I have heard from others that this is normal for AR patterns — limited sizing and very sparse instructions. It’s a bummer bc I really like the look of a lot of the patterns in their sewing book and was considering buying it. But not if the instructions are going to leave me high and dry at every turn, and the sizing is so small.

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      1. Kathleen Blackmur Avatar
        Kathleen Blackmur

        So I did buy the English edition of the book🙃. My daughter visited a friend in Copenhagen so I avoided the steep shipping. I will see my daughter next week and get it (along with my Genra I let her borrow for the trip!!! ). I will report!

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      2. Oh I’ll be very interested to hear your review! 😊

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  2. Alex (adifferentstitch) Avatar
    Alex (adifferentstitch)

    Thanks so much for sharing this review here and on Backstitch. It’s so disappointing that such interesting designs by AR are so full of warning signs to make. The bizarre ease options in the grading is alarming. I truly wonder if her patterns are tested at all.

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    1. Yeah, it’s hard to know whether these patterns are tested for the home sewing market. I would guess not based on the instructions. Since the Now trousers are also offered for sale as a retail garment, I would think (and hope) that there was a testing process at least before releasing the design to those customers, but the average retail shopper is probably going to give very different feedback than a sewist would.

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  3. Thank you for sharing this review. It is disappointing to hear about all these problems in one pattern (even if it is for free)! I have subscribed to AR newsletter, I did not know this brand before your review (I live in Italy), I am curious to see the next patterns. These pants remind me of the Astrid wrap pants pattern by Named clothing. Unfortunately this pattern has been retired but you can still find some photos online, the design is similar. I remember I chose Astrid pattern because there weren’t zips or buttons involved! 🙂 I made the Astrid shorts version, the only issue I found was that the front overlap did not adhere too much (but maybe it was due to my belly or to my sewing skills! :D); no worries to show my underwear, because the inner overlap covered the belly from one side to the other. Thank you for your post, can’t wait to read you next review!

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    1. Ah, yes! I had forgotten about the Astrid pattern, but it does look very similar. Thanks for the reminder! 😊 I think I have a paper copy of Astrid, I will have to dig it out and see how the two wrap closures compare.

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  4. I read this with great interest as I actually did get the free pattern and have it downloaded on my computer. Like you, I was taken by the design–I actually do need yoga pants, but was deterred by the instructions which felt very vague. Similarly I remember looking at the finished measurements and find them odd, although I couldn’t at a glance tell what was wrong. Thank you for this detailed review. I am still curious about the pattern but I will now approach it with some caution when (and if) I decide to make it. I know it is a free pattern, but I feel that free does not have to have bad instructions. The peppermint wide legs pants is also a free pattern and save one mistake in the instructions (a left – right confusion) I thought those instructions (and many others) have been very well written.

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  5. I have the pattern, fit the size range, and am undeterred by a challenge – so I feel like this review was for me! Thanks. I made some pants a while back from a 1950s Woman’s Day pattern that have a similar cross front and I’ve worn them out. Looking forward to trying this pattern. They look really nice on you.

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    1. Thanks! 😊 Enjoy making the pattern!

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  6. sewingmyhappyplace Avatar
    sewingmyhappyplace

    Hi

    thanks for the review, I found you when researching the top down centre out method, subscribed and found this. I have made a toile of this pattern and really scratched my head over the instructions. I need to shorten above and below the knee I think (170cms tall) as they are extremely long for me. Together with the info you have provided I will revisit this pattern. Many thanks 😊

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