Cosmique Jacket by Les Lubies de Cadia

Fun fact: my home city has the longest spring season in the US, yet one glaring hole in my wardrobe for years has been a lightweight spring jacket. I can never settle on a pattern. Enter the Cosmique jacket from Les Lubies De Cadia, a new-to-me French pattern company. Cosmique manages to take utilitarian workwear and elevate it with some interesting design choices, so I decided to give it a try.

DesigN and fit

The Cosmique design strikes me as a blend between the Nova coat and the Paola workwear jacket. You get the dramatic, diagonal seam lines on the front (and back) of the jacket but with the everyday practicality of workwear.

Cosmique has a drop shoulder, two front pockets concealed in the front seam, and plenty of ease. There is no shaping through the body of the jacket, so the circumference at the chest is equal to that at the hip. This pattern could easily be a non-gendered design that fits a wide range of body shapes. The fit is intentionally generous and boxy, but the diagonal seam lines break up the square silhouette and add visual interest.

Depending on fabric choice, Cosmique could also be an overshirt, rather than a jacket. I think the design works particularly well with sleeves rolled up, to balance the volume in the body.


Cosmique comes in two size ranges: 34-48 (up to a 42.5 inch / 108 cm chest) and 48-54 (up to a 52.75 inch / 134 cm chest). Initially, this pattern was released only in the lower size range, but the designer quickly opened a pre-order to fund a size expansion. Ultimately, it’s still not the most size inclusive pattern on the market, however I’m appreciative of Cadia’s quick response to feedback and her commitment to offering patterns in her full size range. I encourage Cadia to expand her sizing even further.

Cosmique is designed to have 11-12 inches (28-30 cm) of ease at the chest for all sizes. I’d recommend choosing your size by determining how much ease you want in the jacket, then comparing the finished garment measurements to your own body measurements. The finished garment measurements for this jacket go up to a 64.5 inch (164 cm) chest/hip circumference.

I sized down one size for my Cosmique. My body measurements (39 inch / 99 cm chest, 42 inch / 107 cm hip) put me between a size 44 and 46, but I cut a size 42 which still feels very roomy. I have 9 inches of ease at the bust and 6.75 inches of ease at the hip, which feels comfortable.


This pattern comes with instructions in French and English. The English pdf instructions were clear with helpful diagrams. If you speak French, there is an extensive blog post available here as well as a sew-along video (also in French but the visuals may be helpful). Cosmique is categorized with a difficulty rating of 4/5, but I think it would be suitable for an intermediate sewist who has made a button up shirt (including collars, cuffs, and button bands). A good understanding of how to work with bulky fabrics is also helpful, and something that’s not discussed much in the English instructions.

The pattern recommends a range of heavyweight fabrics such as denim, gabardine, jacquard, or even velvet for this coat, but no mention of recommended weights. I chose a 10 oz Japanese selvedge denim that I’ve had in my stash for years but that always felt too lightweight for jeans.

I took advantage of the selvedge edge for constructing the button plackets and the cuffs. I like how I can see a little bit of selvedge peaking out along the inside of the placket when I wear it open (which is always because I haven’t added buttons yet). I slightly regret not leaving a little selvedge exposed on the tower plackets, too, but once I sewed them up there was no way I was going to unpick them.

My one critique of the instructions is the collar assembly. The instructions tell you to sew the two collar pieces together starting at one end and ending at the other, like this:

For collars, I prefer to use directional sewing for a nicer finish. Because portions of the red seam line above are slightly on bias, sewing from one end to the other can cause the fabric to skew as you sew, resulting in a twisted collar. I sew the collar pieces together in 2 passes, starting in the center of the collar and sewing toward the short ends, like this:

When sewn from the center, the under collar can be slightly stretched evenly as you sew (this tutorial illustrates how, the original source is David Page Coffin). Stretching the under collar relative to the outer collar gives the collar its own natural 3D shaping, seen here as the collar is laying on my ironing board. This shaping ensures it will always lay correctly on the finished garment.

After stretching, the under collar is slightly smaller, which encourages the whole collar piece to curve around the neck rather than sit flat. It also prevents the under collar fabric from bunching up or wrinkling once the collar is sewn to the jacket.

Final thoughts

I like this jacket so much that I started wearing everywhere it as soon as I’d sewn the last seam. The design re-imagines a basic workwear overcoat into something a little more elegant.

A few things I’d do differently next time, if I make it again:

First, this pattern has 3/8 inch (1 cm) seam allowances throughout, which makes serging seams a breeze. I prefer a flat-felled seam on a jacket like this, though, so if I make it again I will increase the seam allowance to 5/8 (1.6 cm) instead and flat fell everything.

Second, I’m also wondering if there is a way to make the pocket bag larger. It’s deep enough to carry my phone, but it’s not as spacious as I’d hoped. I’m considering extending the pocket bag all the way to the button placket next time, although this may mean some changes to the pocket construction.

Finally, I would grade the sleeve cuffs down to a smaller size if making this pattern again. The cuff circumference feels quite large even with a sweater underneath, and I can pinch out at least two inches of fabric before they start to feel right.

These adjustments are fairly minor, though. If you are looking for a transitional jacket for spring or autumn, this pattern is worth a try.

16 thoughts on “Cosmique Jacket by Les Lubies de Cadia”

  1. Thanks so much for introducing us to this pattern design. I really like it, and I appreciate all your tips. Yours is gorgeous.
    Is the pattern designed for a ‘B’ bust?


    1. I’m not sure what bust cup size this designer typically designs for, but there are 11-12 inches of ease at the bust for this pattern if you go by the size charts, which would likely accommodate B through D cups pretty easily (I am between a C and a D in sewing bra cup sizing and had no trouble with the fit on this coat). There is no shaping in the diagonal front seams, but I think there could be an opportunity to turn them into shaping elements if you want to play with the design.


      1. I haven’t noticed the hem lifting in the front on my jacket. I’ve also been wearing it open the whole time because it has no buttons, so take my observations with a grain of salt. 🙂


  2. Question from an old lady here – I looked at the pattern on the model and noted that sleeves are so long they nearly cover her hands. I noticed that the Grainline Studio Archer shirt is the same and I have seen this several other places as well.

    Is this sleeve length a new style?

    Many decades ago, I learned that the bottom of the shirt cuff should touch the back of your hand held at a 90-degree angle. I have been dying to ask someone about this and tag! You’re it! Thanks.


    1. Great question! I think the answer is that is depends on the style and one’s personal preference. For this jacket, the general design and silhouette is a bit boxy and oversized, so the sleeve cuff and location are proportional with the rest of the jacket. Since oversized, boxier silhouettes are more popular these days, I do think that sleeve lengths have increased recently. It would be interesting to find some workwear patterns from 40-50 years ago and do a comparison!


      1. What a great answer! I am now going to have to do a bit of research to see when the style changed – but thanks for the confirmation that this is really is a thing.

        Since you mentioned comparisons…

        Here is a pattern that was probably first released 30 years ago: Green Pepper F858 French Barn Jacket and from the 70’s, Simplicity 5851 is a reasonable shacket example, Stretch & Sew 1030 is probably from the 80’s, and McCalls 3242 is an excellent example of a women’s chore shirt from the 50’s.


  3. Thanks for the collar sewing tips, makes sense (but would probably never have occurred to me). What are tower plackets?


    1. Tower plackets are the kind you see on the cuffs in some of the photos here — they are constructed in a way that you end up with the shape of a house (or a tower) at the top of the cuff placket, then a long rectangular strip of fabric leading down to the cuff. There are lots of resources for making them if you search online, it’s a great cuff finish.


  4. Thanks for introducing this pattern and sharing your experience with it. You note that the pattern does not provide any info on working with bulky fabrics. Can you recommend a resource for that? My recent attempt at a jacket (not this pattern) using upholstery fabric was a failure, especially trying to get seams to come together at underarm/sleeve. Is it just that one needs a machine more powerful/larger than a standard sewing machine?


    1. I have a regular Bernina home sewing machine, and it usually does fine with heavy denims, so an industrial machine hasn’t been necessary for me. I’ve picked up tips and tricks for heavy fabrics along the way, but Elbe Textiles has a list of some basics: I also typically will lengthen my stitch length, especially when top stitching, and sometimes I need to adjust the tension on the upper thread. When turning hems that intersect with flat felled seams, I will usually trim away a bit of the seam allowance on the flat fell so that the hem can turn nicely and I’m not sewing over 8+ layers of thick fabric when I stitch the hem. Next time I need to do this for a pair of jeans, I’ll take some pictures and include it in a blog post.


      1. Thanks very much for your prompt reply. I’ve tried some of these — longer stitch, graded seam allowance — but not all your suggestions. And Elbe’s recommendation of HAMMERING is a hoot! I figure if it doesn’t resolve the sewing problem, at least it channels the frustration. I’m definitely adding that to my list of possible strategies. 😉


      2. I have an old rawhide jewelry mallet that I keep around for hammering seams whenever I’m making denim. It doesn’t seem like it would have a big impact, but it definitely can make sewing over bulky seams much easier. And agreed, it’s a great way to take out some frustrations, too.


  5. Love your jacket, the pattern is something I’d like to give a try. I’d just purchased 3 yards of heavy denim last week but I think it’d be too heavy for this pattern. However, I’m sure, somewhere in the fabric vault there is something suitable for it! Thanks for the thorough review and tips. Ann in NC


    1. Thank you! A heavy denim would probably work with this pattern if you have the patience (and the machine) to get through some bulky seams. Hope you enjoy sewing it, whatever fabric you use!


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