The Crooked Hem

Top Down Center Out with the Eve Trousers

When I first encountered the Top Down Center Out pants fitting method, I didn’t understand it. Why so much emphasis on the waistband? How am I going to get pants to fit if I can’t redraft the inseam, crotch curve, or leg angle? What about the balance? I’m used to slashing, spreading, and redrafting every pants pattern to fit me, and this method didn’t seem like it was going to be enough. Friends, I was wrong.

Paola Jacket x Marlo Sweater Hack

After making a waffle knit Marlo sweater last month, I wanted to try the pattern again in a woven with a few tweaks to the design. For this version, I wanted the cardigan to be more fitted through the shoulder and chest. I pictured something closer to a light jacket but still retaining the signature details of the Marlo sweater. So I combined neckline of the Marlo with the body of the Paola workwear jacket. The result is super squishy, jacket-cardigan hybrid (the Parlo? the Maolo?) that is exactly what I wanted for spring.

The Isca Dress by Marilla Walker

I’ve made a lot of button up shirts over the years, and the Isca dress by Marilla Walker has always caught my eye because it is a unique twist on a classic design. The princess seam on the front bodice creates a stunning “V” shape and is a great way to emphasize a bold stripe, directional print, or color blocking. There’s also a clever shoulder construction that omits a traditional shoulder seam entirely.

Marlo Sweater by True Bias

The True Bias Marlo Sweater pattern came out last winter, and I’ve been eyeing this oversized cardigan as a potential winter staple ever since. There are a lot of gorgeous Marlos in the IG hashtag, but the one that Sienna from Not a Primary Color made won me over completely, and I decided to make one for myself.

How to make a shoulder template

Achieving the perfect fit for a bodice begins with the shoulders. A shoulder template is a great way to quickly check the shoulder width and slope on a new pattern to see if any adjustments are needed before you start sewing. In today’s post, I’ll walk you through how I made my template and how I use it.

Cup-Sized Tees: Concord vs. Comfi (Part 2)

Welcome back to Part 2 of the Cashmerette Concord versus the Pattern Scout Comfi t-shirt discussion. In Part 1, I discussed the sizing and drafting on both patterns. In today’s post, I’ll focus on the fit with side-by-side muslins.

Cup-sized Tees: Concord vs Comfi (Part 1)

With hundreds of t-shirt patterns out there, it’s hard to know which one will fit best or even how they differ. I wanted a classic tee that is fitted through the shoulder and bust with a set-in sleeve. Today’s post compares two t-shirt patterns that fit these criteria, the Pattern Scout Comfi tee and the Cashmerette Concord tee. Below I’ll compare the flat pattern pieces for both, and in my next post, I’ll sew both shirts to analyze the fit on my body.

Charlie Caftan by ClosetCore Patterns

I went on a vacation recently and decided to sew a mini-capsule wardrobe for the trip. I don’t have a lot of summer clothes to begin with, and I wanted to experiment with colors and bolder prints that I don’t have in my wardrobe. A tropical vacation seemed like a good time to try both, and the Charlie Caftan by ClosetCore patterns was by far my favorite make for the trip because I got the fit and fabric choice just right. After a series of misses in my sewing room lately, this project felt really good.

Bisque vs. Miller Trousers

On the surface, the new Bisque Trousers from Vivian Shao Chen and the Miller Trousers from Paper Theory look very similar. Both patterns have an elastic waist, tapered leg, slant pockets, and a front pleat. But how do they compare? Despite appearances, there are a lot of differences, so buckle up for a head-to-head comparison.

Agnes PJs by Paper Theory

Paper Theory describes the Agnes PJs as being a “relaxed loungewear suit”, and that’s pretty much all I needed to know; I bought these instantly. Like many (all?) Paper Theory patterns, they are comfortable, classic, and a little bit unusual. Patterns like that always make for the best sewing projects and Agnes does not disappoint.